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How To Build A Wood Shooting House For Deer Hunting?

I hope that previous blogs helped you to complete your set of route table, wood router, and pocket hole jig and that they met your requirements for woodworking. Let not them stay in your basement; let’s use them to build something challenging this time.

Deer hunting gets pretty challenging but building a shooting house out of wood is way more challenging work. It is not only going to protect you from the scorching heat of the sun but also from the cold breeze during winters and give an ease and comfy place for blind hunting. Don’t you worry!

We are here to help you to build yourself a wood shooting house for deer hunting with all the detailed procedure and list of materials required for it. Let’s first have a look at tools and materials you would need:

  • Route table: For cutting the wood at précised angles and to get fine finishing
  • Jack studs: It is a stud that is used to give support for lintel and sill trimmer
  • Wood screws and glue: To join the fixtures
  • Plywood
  • Tools: Washers and galvanized bolts and nuts
  • Hinges and latch: A metal piece attached to wood that enables one to use doors and windows
  • Wrenches, carpenter squares, glasses and gloves

If you are a beginner, it is suggested that you read our blog on “Essential woodworking skills for survival” and “Useful woodworking tips and tricks.” There are different types of shooting houses; we are going to build a portable one so that you can carry it to different spots. Let’s start building it step-by-step.

Checkpoint 1: Building platform

Assemble everything on the leveled ground, to prevent the skids getting a dig in the ground. Start by cutting two quantities of skids, each of 96” with consecutive angles at the ends using a circular saw. On the inner side of the skids, connect a rear and front legs using bolts at the bottom and 24” away from either of the end.

Connect side joists with the legs so that their top edges are around 38” from the skid’s bottom. Precisely cut the outer ends of rafters and connect them at the top of each segment so that their tops do not bulge out. Bolt any one end of the front joist to a side of the segment in a way that it makes a perfect square.

Lift both the segments and bolt the other side of the front joint to the other and similarly the back joist. Level the platform keeping in mind that the distance between two ends should be 72”. You can even connect metal pieces beneath the corners to level the platform.

Checkpoint 2: Constructing Steps and Floor Planning

Connect the inner floor joists at even spacing between­ the back and front joists. Cut the plywood in a way that it perfectly sets within the edges of the legs. Place and bolt the floor to the joists such that it covers all the sides, back and front joists.

Now, first connect the back and front hangers at the top of each leg forcing them towards rear rafters. Secondly, bolt the inner rafters and connect the rear and front to the support of top and end edges of the skid. Then bolt the 2×4” lateral support in their place attaching their top ends to the lateral joist and their bottom to skids.

Affix all the lateral supports to the legs and connect the back and front bottom supports to the legs. There should be an “X” formation in a horizontal direction between each pair of legs. Cut the upper and surface angles of the array of steps and bolt them to the back joist and skid support. Now, they are prepared for installation.

 Photo Credit: http://www.mossyoak.com

Checkpoint 3: Window Cadre and Studs

Cut three back, two side and two front studs and bolt them in their place such that they fit into the back and front rafter’s hanger and outer rafter. These smaller blocks can be clamped to the floor thus helping in fastening the studs. The outer two studs are to be fit along their inner ends 20” from the exterior floor ends which are 32” apart.

Every lateral stud has to be fit 24” at the center from the back exterior floor ends. While facing the back of the shed, fit the first back stud 24” and second stud 37” from the right-hand and left-hand floor ends respectively. Fit the third stud towards the inner end of the left-hand leg. This setting will form the spaces for window and a rear door.

Connect the 2×2” and 2×4” corner pieces to every leg. Cut down the surface and top window cadres into the size of the rear, lateral and front window. Bolt them in between the legs and studs. To form the side joints, cut, fit and screw the weaken studs that can be fitted below and above the window cadre.

Checkpoint 4: Door, Roofing, and Walls

It’s time to install all the five lateral pieces turn-by-turn using galvanized nails of size 4. Highlight the locations to drill down a hole in the interior of every window corners. The hole on both the side of window cadre should be completely aligned, and you can use circular saw and pocket hole jig to make hole and cuts for window hinges. At the end use the handsaw for finishing.

Cut and place the roof of the correct size after waterproofing it. All the edges of the roof should be completely sealed. Similarly, cut the door and attach the knob and hinges and connect it to the decided place.

Checkpoint 5: Touch-Ups

Cut all the inner skid supports and instead, put a screw in them. Make a hole with the jig and pass heavy ropes throw it and anchor them to the ground. This will offer strong support for the house. Apply dull coating and paint that could match the colors of the surrounding. You can use spray paints to make patterns for cloaking. Also, you can cover the house with a net.

To Wrap Up

Your portable house is ready for use. I hope that you were able to build the house as you had imagined. Drag it to the nearest spot to start hunting and use a heavy vehicle to drag it. Keep reading our blogs and don’t forget to comment your valuable reviews below. Happy hunting!

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